Togħmiet – Maltese for tastes or flavours – explores Malta’s tradition of cucina povera: a way of eating shaped not by abundance, but by seasonality, scarcity, faith, ingenuity and making the very best of what the land and sea could provide.

At the heart of the Mediterranean table were three ancient staples: wheat, olives and grapes. Together, they formed what is sometimes described as the Mediterranean ‘holy trinity’ – bread, olive oil and wine. On islands where fresh water was scarce and not always safe to drink, wine was both a practical staple and part of everyday food culture, rather than something reserved for celebration.

The tasting menu,created by Moyra Sammut of Ġenna tal-Art, draws upon these traditions and the ingredients of the Maltese landscape. Taste ġbejniet, Malta’s traditional small cheeses made from sheep’s milk, served with seasonal accompaniments that might include locally foraged herbs, local pink peppercorns or preserves, such as pickled figs, depending on what nature provides. Other tastes include capunata, Maltese olives and oven-baked onions, grilled seasonal vegetables, locally caught sardines and freshly fried rabbit.

Every dish opens another window onto the islands’ past. We explore the Catholic giorni di magro, or meatless days, and their influence on what people ate; why small fish such as sardines and anchovies were important to ordinary households; and the very real dangers once associated with travelling further from the coast in pursuit of larger, deep-water fish. Our sardines are sourced through Moyra’s relationship with a local fisherman and caught in the waters beneath the dramatic Dingli Cliffs.

Dessert follows the season too but may take us into Malta’s more recent history with a reimagined trifle made with goat’s-milk ricotta – bringing together the legacy of British colonial rule and a time when goats, rather than cows, were a ubiquitous part of the Maltese landscape.

Alongside the food, food anthropologist Rachel Radmilli takes us on a journey through the story of Maltese wine and winemaking: from the grape’s ancient place within the Mediterranean diet to the development of Malta’s wineries and contemporary wine culture.